Last Day In Niagara

The morning of our second day in Niagara, camped at Shalamar Lake Campground we slept in and bit. After breakfast I took the computer over to the office area to see if the internet would work this morning. I got lucky and paid some bills and updated the blog. We had plans to meet with Mike Riddick (Ontario SCRC Provincial Officer) at 3:00 to go to the falls so we jumped on our bikes and rode to the village area of Niagara on the Lake. We parked and walked up and down the picturesque street. The buildings were a variety of historic architecture with freshly painted exteriors and flowers and trees everywhere. Even the side streets were outstanding. At on corner sat two horse drawn carriages waiting for passengers. There was every imaginable boutique and even a Tilley store. The aroma from the bakeries and coffee shops were irresistible. Shortly after !:00 we headed back to camp.

Jill was interested in a swim in the pool so I headed out to locate a grocery store for a few supplies. When I returned I found Jill resting and nursing an upset tummy.

Jill interjects... just my luck to have missed out on a guided tour of the falls, but perhaps the timing was good as I could not have been on the bike. I made a bathroom buddy who was suffering from the same condition & made the decision to switch to bottled water and avoid food for the next 36 hours. Certainly regret missing out on time at Mike's with the 238 bunch. Liked them very much and time in their company was an easy and natural thing. Sandra, one of the guests at Mike's was kind enough to send along a Niagara City Hall pin for me so I can wear it and pretend I did the tour.

Tummy feeling okay by noon the next day. Yeah! Here's Grant...

With the condition she was feeling she opted out of the afternoon/evening plans and I rode out the gate at 3:00 to meet Mike. Prompt as ever and keen to conduct a tour Mike was ready to go. He led me along Niagara Parkway. We took a stop near the Brock monument where back at the beginning was where the falls were originally located. We then went to a parking area at Rainbow Bridge were he works. This little maneuver put us into a restricted parking area that meant we didn’t have to pay the $20 each parking fee around the falls. From there we walked a distance right down the table rock where the Horseshoe Falls rolls over. All along the way were magnificent views of the American Falls and the Horseshoe Falls. The Maids of the Mist were running full tilt with lineups waiting to get on. Mike was a super host with lots of stories and knowledge of the falls and the city. I took lots of pictures and we had an ice cream to try to cool ourselves in very warm weather.

After the visit to the Falls Mike led me on a route that would have gotten me lost, right to his house in an extremely nice area of Niagara. He had planned a bbq and a few members of his club were coming by. At the house I met his dog Katie and big cat I think named George. His son Nick came shortly after we arrived. Nick is a bright young man celebrating his 20th birthday tomorrow, Friday. Happy Birthday Nick. Too Tall Paul and his wife Cecille arrived for dinner and we got to it. Ian got caught up at work and couldn’t make dinner. Paul is a well travelled biker having travelled every US state and all over Canada. He gave me some very helpful advise on our next leg of the journey. This involved avoiding all the traffic of metro Toronto and suburbs. After we had eaten Big Dave and his wife Sandra arrived. Dave and Paul both drive Electra Classics. We had a fun chit chat in Mike’s back yard. We heard from Ian and Eva and arranged to meet with them at a point of our ride.

All fed and watered, we got on our bikes and Paul led us on a wonderful ride in areas that only the experienced would know to use. We wound up at Lock 3 I believe and waited to see if the ship on the other lock was going to come down to us. But it seemed to tie up after it cleared the lock it was in. Ian and Eva arrived while we were there and soon we gave up waiting for a slow boat. So in good old SCRC fashion Paul led us through some great countryside to where else.... and ice cream place. This is an outlet right at the dairy producer. You could smell the cattle sitting outside. Once we all had enjoyed our cool treats the group of these wonderfully warm fellow riders from Niagara led me safely back to the campground were we said heartfelt farewells. I can’t thank this group and Mike especially for the wonderful way we were welcomed and for the generosity of their time. Chapter 238 of the Golden Horseshoe should be very proud of the fine group of people they are.

Back at the campsite, Jill said that it was sad that she had missed the time but was good that she had stayed near the camp for her. That night the campground had filled up quite a bit more and a lot of high adrenaline children were about. A group of kids had elected to play lacrosse behind us and by 11:30 it became a bit bothersome. We both elected to have half a sleeping pill and try to get some rest for morning. Our plans were to cross over the Queenston/Lewiston Bridge into the US. The route that Paul had shown me would save a lot of heavy traffic driving and take us through Bangor Maine, where Stephen King writes about on, our way to New Brunswick. We will get to Quebec City on the way back.

Jill again...

We joined in the cattle drive over the Lewiston Bridge. Temp at 9am was 76 F and humid. Spent about 30 minutes on the pavement sitting on hot machines as we waited our turn. I was praying we wouldn't be next in line for the random search imagining the tent trailer and all our gear spread out in a parking lot. Grant went through first. I had my passport ready. There's something about American border guards in their aviator sunglasses that intimidates the hell out of me. The gentleman walked behind me to make a note of my license plate number and said, "I'm surprised it doesn't say 'Little Giby' .", a reference to Grant vanity "Giby' plate. Knew I was alright.

Tobermory to Niagara

Tobermory On

Tuesday morning we woke in the motel in South Bay Mouth and were loaded up by 7:00. Felt like a beautiful Fall day. Shortly thereafter we went to Carol and Earl’s Restaurant for breakfast. If you are ever in this area be sure to try this place out. We had a superb home cooked meal the night before and were treated to a two egg, blackforest ham, home fries and toast for only $4.95 this morning.

Jill remembers some stuff told to her by Lesley in the laundromat... asked him about the abandoned farm sites we saw on the Island. The old farm houses are empty, grey and weathered with not an animal in site. Lesley said the island used to be famous for turkeys and horses. He said there was only about 4 inches of topsoil on top of the limestone. He said the calcium in the rock made the animals have very strong legs. He said young people of today don’t want to do the work of farming any more. Not sure of the accuracy of all this. Things learned in a laundromat are sketchy. Still, Lesley seemed like a wise old guy who had lived a full life and I’ll take his word for it.

After breakfast we got ourselves into the ferry lineup and strolled around for the hour before the ferry came in. No preferred boarding for bikes but they are all moved to the front where there are tie-downs for motorcycles. The sailing is the same length as the Nanaimo/Horseshoe Bay run. For a part of the voyage there was considerable rolling hence the need to tie down the bikes.

We arrived in Tobermory just before 11:00, prepared for rain. The sky ahead looked like the vortex of evil in the movies. From there we took Hwy. 6 south. An OPP cruiser followed us for a way then turned off when we would do no wrong. The small towns we went through were fascinatingly beautiful with a lot of old stone or brick houses. The countryside still looks lush after a late Spring. We’re in the area of the 100 acre far and the corn is as high as an elephant’s thigh.

We stopped at Wairton for a coffee to warm up at Tim Hortons (they don’t take debit out this way). We’re getting pretty familiar with their menu. Think that Wairton Willie saw his shadow again and called for more winter. We had to bundle up for the cold and showed some respect for the cloudy skies and prepped for rain. That was to ensure that none would occur. Owen Sound was magnificent and if our timing had been better we would have made an attempt to meet up with Kim Speight’s sister. But we felt the need to get some distance done and make for Hamilton or nearby. All the towns on the way were a delight to see. The roads were comfortable and the countryside stunning.

Mount Forest had an attractiveness that made we think of stopping. I later learned that this was a place Jill hung out in during her hippy years when Kate was first born. If we were to pass this way again I’d be sure to take more time and stop.

With Hamilton and it’s traffic routes on my mind we pressed on. By the time we reached Guelph we were ready for a meal. I got us off the highway to a little mall where Jill discovered Ample Annie’s Pub. There we had one of the best burgers and fries either of us has ever had. We fueled up and rode on.

In order to regain Hwy 6 we had to go onto the 401 for a brief period. Wow, we were in Vancouver like traffic again. Yeah, we survived, but exited to #6 again ASAP. We had tried to locate a campground short of Hamilton and as luck would have it we located Emerald Lake Campground about 40k south of Guelph. There we set up for the night and attempted to get on the internet. Although we had a signal we could not get connected. Apparently we were not the only ones with that problem. The skies looked as though they could still offer up some rain but luckily the clouds cleared off and we woke to a splendid morning.

Our neighbours in the campground were from the Niagara area. They came over and poured over the map with us and offered suggestions for back road routes. Grant spent what seemed like several hours inputting it into the GPS and we set off.

Their suggestions took us along Hwy 6 to Hwy 8 through some lovely countryside dotted with small villages known as the Green Belt. There is lots of history in this area. We were stopped at a construction site and on our left was an old log house dated 1816.

The tiger lillies are in full bloom in every ditch, orange amongst the white daisies and blue chicory. The two storey red brick farm houses are set in a cluster of old maples. Holstein cows, black and white against the green of pasture. The barns are grey and weathered red roofs. Each village we passed boasted a substantial church with surrounding cemetery.

Other impressions are the smells... the beauty of the bike. Heady scent passing a field of clover. Lilac smell in Manitoba due to their late spring. Here in rural Ontario, the smell of fresh cut hay. Seems there's some manure spreading going on, as there always is in life.

We didn’t ride more than 200 k today, but keeping to the suggested route proved stressful. I got impatient with Grant and his bleeding GPS, totally unreliable even after 4 hours of destination inputting. It demanded we take the Queen Elizabeth, the busiest highway in southern Ontario. We were forced to ignore it’s constant beepings and instruction to “Turn left as soon as it is legally possible to do so” and rely on the map and gas station advice.

Again, people have been very kind about helping us out with directions. Had several waves today from other vehicles. It’s a friendly gesture I plan to repeat with tourists in our area.

At Lundy’s Lane nearing Niagara Falls, things suddenly became congested and heavily populated. It had a seedy air. Judging from the design of the motels, it was really rocking in the 70’s. Things got busier and crazier the closer we came to the Falls. It had the air of a kinda nasty border town. We stopped for directions and were told that parking in the area ran $20 a day for each bike.

We had reserved a campsite in Queenston, just up the highway. We left the freeway and followed the Niagara on the Lake Parkway which was lovely. Groomed gardens on all sides and a gently curving road.

Our campsite is heavily treed and has a pool I plan to use tomorrow. The sun was out by the time we checked in and the tent has fully dried out.

We belong to a bike club (Southern Cruisers Riding Club which has chapters in several countries) with a chapter here in Niagara. When they heard about our trip plans, they kindly offered to act as hosts. Grant phoned the Provincial Officer, Mike tonight and he rode over with Eva and Ian. Eva rode a Vulcan 800 only black. I immediately liked her very much and we joked about being Vulcan sisters. Ian and Mike rode identical ’09 Voyagers, Grant’s dream bike, purchased one week apart.We followed along on a wonderful tour up to Niagara On The Lake. This is certainly one of the most picturesque areas I’ve ever see. The parkway is lined with stately historical houses, often white and detailed confections. Mike led the group of four bikes by some historical forts along the gorge, past a beautiful marina then down some backstreets to a Tim Horton’s where we met some other members of the local chapter.

Mike is meeting us at 3 tomorrow with plans to take us on a tour of the Falls, Welland Canal with a follow-up BBQ at his place. It’s a relief to be able to put ourselves in Mike’s hands. He’s a warm, generous and immensely likable man and the chaos of the tourist mayhem here is too much for two geriatrics from a small island town.

Other members of the Niagara chapter will be coming to the bar-B-Q. They seem a great bunch and their warm camraderie shines through. This chapter does lots of riding. This summer they plan to ride to Memphis. They’ve been to Virginian and California.

Grant and I are back at the campsite sitting quietly in the dark sipping our Drambuei, looking forward to what tomorrow brings.

Opps, just had a visit from a skunk. Grant stood up and scared it away before anything unfortunate happened.

Tressalon to Manitoulin Island, Ontario

Wawa is cold in the morning in early July. The increasingly urgent message from my bladder was the only thing that could make me consider leaving the warmth of the sleeping bag.

We didn’t realize how much we had been climbing on Saturday’s approach to Wawa. I got very cold, but leading was stubbornly caught up in the momentum of the ride and felt reluctant to stop and add a layer. The wind really started to bite and had to pull over 20k shy, no longer feeling able to safely ride. Grant was freezing too. Added my fave Blurr hoodie (thanks again Kaite) and soldiered on.

We had covered alot of road yesterday after a sleepless night. Fell asleep immediately, deeply and for the duration. Woke up a much nicer girl. Delighted to discover heated showers... now a much nicer and cleaner girl.

Several days ago had switched to my three quarter helmet with full face-shield being fed up with bug splatters on my glasses and face. Decided to try our my little Shuffle music player thinking the sound quality might be alright under the bigger helmet.

So this morning we set off east on Hwy 17, the Trans Canada under bright blue skies, the air clear, cold and biting. I’d learned my lesson and suited up in every piece of clothing I owned, happy and comfortable in my own private enviornment on the bike. My music system worked perfectly as we rode through the poplar and birch forest cutting through the pink granite rock faces that border the highways of northern Ontario.

In eastern Manitoba, we had heard about a recent wind storm that had brought down many trees. There’s lots of damage in these Ontario woods. Sadly, many birch uprooted and broken.

I rode along following Grant’s orange steady presence sharing my ride with Joni, the Dixie Chicks & Alanis. I thought to myself, this is as good as it gets.

I was raised in Southern Ontario and has a young woman, over forty years ago I hitch hiked this road more than once. I thought about those times as I rode today. Once with Valerie, an Amercian woman I met in Toronto. She was headed to a commune in California and invited me along. In those days, the highways were littered with other young people like us, holding bits of cardboard with West scribbled on them. We were cautious about rides and had no problems making it all the way to Vancouver. We had been picked up by a car of hippies who had some pot. They decided it wise to smoke it all before crossing the border.

When we got to the border crossing and rolled down the window, the guard asked us to leave the vehicle and report to the office. The car was thoroughly searched & the Americans were allowed to proceed.

My story about the commune and the fact I had only $35 to my name didn’t go over well with the guard. Had to phone my poor old mum and ask her to send my bus fare home. Sorry mum for what I put you through.

I stayed in touch with Valerie for several years. She became a mum as did I, but we lost touch. Where are you now Valerie?

Could not have possible imagined that 40 years later I’d be making the trip on a motorcycle.The vistas along Superior have been breath-taking. The rock shelves along the shore reflect the the sun with a tourqoise blue, the deeper water a slightly darker blue than the sky. Not much development along these norther Ontario shores, the odd log cabin. The shore in littered with small rock islands home to a tree or two. This is most definitely Group of Seven country. They did it well.

Grant suggested an easy day today. Maybe he wanted to avoid the return of bad-temepered Jill. Maybe he was tired too.

Actually, the riding has been easy. Great roads, much of it 4 lane and very little traffic. Sometimes we ride 100 k without seeing another vehicle. The corners are gentle and there is the distraction of the views.

After 2 days of rarely seeing another motorcycle, suddenly they are everywhere... from single lone wolves up to huge groups. The word is clearly out. These are great motorcycling roads. Bikes from all over Canada and the States.The woods changed and got taller on either side. The trees are ancient elms and maples. They have been here for a long time.

Teressalon Ontario, Town Campsite- I am writing this tonight by the fire at our campsite on the shore of Lake Huron. We leave early tomorrow for Manatoulin Island and the ferry to Tobermory.

Camped next to us are three middle-aged men from Boston. They have duplicate expensive bikes suitable for off roading if required loaded with gear and headed to Alaska. Could be lawyers or teachers perhaps with the summer off. They have set us 3 separate, identical tents and I can hear their quiet Bostonian chatter.

Time for bed.

Monday night on Manitoulin Island

Woke up to the sound of rain drumming on the roof of the tent. The Bostonians headed out, dressed like Michelan men. We followed their example, put on 47 layers & bravely set out. Stopped after an hour for a great cafe breakfast in Blind River. A funky little place with good blues music playing and a proprietor who helped us pour over the map.

It was a cold days ride. Everyone is talking about how unseasonably cold it is and how the rain is keeping the farmers out of the fields and the loggers out of the bush. Quite a contrast to what we heard in the prairies.

Followed Hw 17 to Espanola, then south onto Manitoulin Island. Jesuit priests came here in 1846. It is a very old settlement and there is little sign of new development. Very few people and many old abandoned farmsteads. Lots of rock, water and wind.

Did some laundry tonight as we were starting to smell abit. Spent an enjoyable hour chatting to Lesley, a local gentleman of 76 with a fine wit. He had some costume jewellery with him and gave me a pair of earrings for my mum. He said to tell her to wear them in good health.

Tomorrow we catch a ferry over to Tobermory and the beautiful Bruce peninsula. We're in a motel right across from the ferry as it's an early start. Dined tonight on fresh Lake perch caught close by.

Weather report for tomorrow calls for more of the same, but that's how it goes.

Just had a visit from another biker staying at the motel who drove a truck in Southern Ontario for 20 years so he shared lots of information on routes. We're thinking we'll cross into the States at Niagara, then back into Canada by ferry to see Old Quebec City.

Wawa - Drambui to keep warm

This morning I returned to the room with two clean bikes about 10:45 . I missed the continental breakfast but the gal at the front desk still had coffee on and gave me some muffins to take with us. We loaded up sharply, fueled up and left Thunder Bay. About 15 minutes down the road is the Terry Fox Lookout. The bronze statue and memorial is amazing and stirring. As is the view of lake Superior. As we were pulling out Noel and Laurie pulled in. We gave a wave and were off. Beautiful sunny skies blanketed us as we rode east on Hwy. 17. Took our first fuel stop at Nipigon just to be on the safe side. Every now and then the highway gives views of Superior and it is spectacular. The thing is as big as an ocean. Traffic was easy and the driving very pleasant. Not far from Marathon we had to pull over to put on our liners. It seems that Lake Superior can be as cold as it is big.

We spotted another moose at the side of the road, this one not quite as big as yesterday's. Those are big animals. At our fuel stop in White River we met a couple going the other way from Montreal to Vancouver Island. They too were pulling a trailer from a 1700 Vulkan. They too commented on the temperature. They told us they had seen a bear crossing the road and we told them about the moose.

About a 400+ k day today. We arrived in Wawa about 6:30 eastern time. It's quite fascinating to see all the giant geese around the town. Got a picture of the one at the info centre. We fueled up and met a young fellow on a Triumph from Sudbury who was also heading to Vancouver Island. Had a brief chat and went for groceries. We have taken camp at Wawa Campground. Jill cooked us a great dinner with lots of veggies then we hunkered down beside a fire with Drambui on hand. In spite of the sun, the wind off Lake Superior is very cold. May have to use the woollies in bed tonight. We hope to get an earlier start tomorrow and stop earlier in the day. Really not sure where we will make it tomorrow. I am totally blown away by the sheer size of this province. It truly goes on forever.

Bug Splattered in Thunder Bay

Yesterday's travel 596k

... Back to Menendosa on Canada Day.

Convinced Gib we should walk over to see the bison. The feeding station was wisely positioned near the fence so we had a great opportunity to see them up close. Several calves present. Pictures taken etc.

The enclosure is adjacent to a conservation area so we followed the path along the river to a historical village. Spotted a doe with two young fawns in the underbrush.

Maybe it was the sunny sky, but Grant showed an uncharacteristic desire to hike so we head off into the town to a coffee shop we'd noticed. It was in an old brick store front, the kind of place with 15 ft. ceilings hung with tin embossed ceiling tile. Best part... a couch!

Walked back to our campsite enjoying the back streets of the village, treed with lovingly cared for old stone houses. Found one for sale on the river. Checked the MLS later. The heading was "Fish from your back door". Cost $96,600. If not for the loved ones on the coast....

At dusk, downed our Drambie, doused the fire and took our chairs to the lake to wait for the fireworks. They didn't begin until dusk which was about 10:30, but enjoyed watching beach fires, sparklers and private displays up and down the lake shore as the sun set. Even saw a fire fly, my first since childhood in Ontario. Probably the best Canada Day of my life.

Despite promises from the newspaper and internet weather forecaster, woke up to the sound of rain. This made folding up the tent trailer an unpleasant task. Suited up adding an extra layer of rain gear and headed east. Not so fun really, but the lack of traffic and good roads helped.

The rain let off when we stopped for gas. Gib's bike wouldn't start despite a good kicking and use of profanities.

He pulled off to the side and ever the optimist said, "At least it's not raining!".

Checked wiring, following it back and had to take off all his gear carefully strapped and bungy corded to his bike, remove the seat checking fuses. All good. Then wiring systems and noticed a connection that seemed a bit loose. YES! The vibration must have loosened it. Back on the road.

We had been told about good camping in Falcon Lake just shy of Winnipeg.

Beetled off there after a short riding day of about 320 k.

Found a lovely provincial park beside a huge warm lake and set up. People are curious about us and stop to ask where we're from, where we're going etc.

One young father with a 2 year old son stopped for a chat. The boy had a sit on Grant's bike as we chatted and asked about fire wood etc. Seemed we'd missed the firewood truck. About 5 minutes later the young man re-appeared with a box of wood, kindling and some cardboard etc. Grant and I were able to continue our tradition of ending the day by reading until the light went then enjoying the fire sipping our drambuie from a plastic mug.

A neighbouring camper with a lovely kindly face came over with more firewood, wonderful boards that burned bright and hot enough we had to move our chairs back. We take our sheepskin pads from our bikes and place them on our folding chairs and they're quite comfortable. The kind gentleman was a retired teacher and seemed delighted about our "trip of a lifetime". He came back over in the morning to say goodbye extending a pale blue melamine bowl holding some freshly washed ripe strawberries. One big one and 2 little ones so it was fair and there'd be no fighting. They were juicy and sweet and I was so touched by his kindness I asked for a hug. Bet he'd been a great teacher!

No showers in sight and feeling grubby, set off early to find the beach. Met a particularly chatty 60 something fellow biker camped by the path. He had a fully decked out older Harley touring model and was tenting it.

He had a bit of Portman (my bro-in-law) in him. Portman is enthused by life and not afraid to show it. The biker's eyes were full of life and he shared that we was headed to the Maritimes too. It was a trip he'd done several times and was full of advice about what not to miss. He got pretty excited describing the roads and villages, a church somewhere with carved faces at every corner of every window. Made my escape as I knew Grant wanted to get on the road. Found the beach, but also discovered a path bordering the lake that headed back to the campsite. Noticed a rock shelf not far from "home" so returned later in my suit.

Oh, how I wished I was brave enough to skinny dip on this glorious morning in the warm sun-dappled water with just a duck or 2 for company. Still, didn't want to risk traumatizing a child, so kept my suit on and stepped into the water. Silly jilly, didn't think about the possibility of algae. Found myself shooting down towards deeper water no doubt full of huge pike like the ones in the tourist brochure, ready to strike out at my fleshy white thighs.

Managed to grab a rock as I shot by and enjoy a quiet bathe before the struggle to climb back out.

Told Gib about the biker and suggested he was worth the price of admission. Off he went, gone for an hour or so, but returning with lots of info about what to see and what not to miss.

We were only about 30 k from the Ontario border. Stopped at the You Are Entering... sign for a pic. There was an info center there and had a chance meeting with a couple, Laurie & Neol from Dawson Creek on 2 Shadows, also headed for the Maritimes. Seems we're in agreement on road speed... moderate. Noel said his grandad had a quote. "There's old cowboys and bold cowboys. But no such thing as an old, bold cowboy." Good one

Bike travel in Manitoba not as agreeable. The old Hwy 1 we were on yesterday is beat up and scarred. Guess it's the construction method, but there are regular bumps every 6 feet. The constant da-dump, da-dump is like chinese water torture.

The shoulder is gravel and not inviting on 2 wheels.

Ontario roads have been great. I know I thought I wanted to live in Mennedosa, but Kenora area is even better. Lakes everywhere with rock islands sporting a tree or 2, just like in the Group of Seven.

Highways are beautiful with paved shoulders, double yellow through the areas with poor visibility, regular passing lanes. Turns sweep rather than twist so it's an easy ride with lots to see. Truckers have been great, keeping over in their lane and giving us the right of way.

Lots of signs warning "Night Danger" with pics of deer. Thought it read "Night Dancer" at first. Deer changed to moose and I was hoping I'd see one, and did. A cow off to the left up to her knees in water chowing down on Bullrushes. Slowed right down, but not too slow due to uncertainties about moose behaviour. She looked up with dripping mouth and moved off to the woods.

Led most of the way today. Straight east so no need of the GPS. Grant is most considerate in every way & this is a good example. Being in the lead lets me make the decision about when I need to stop. Proud of the distance we travelled. As a treat we got a hotel room with a BATHTUB!

Woken up at 3:30am by a bus load of loud people. The rooms are on the second floor and as there's no elevator, I can only think they were shouting encouragement to those carrying the luggage up the stairs then back and forth between rooms. Took forever for them to settle. Angrily noted Grant immediately fell asleep again. Gave him several kicks in retaliation.

Woke up feeling tired and grumpy. Grant has gone off to wash the bugs off the bikes. He said he's hoping the nice Jill will be here he returns. I'll try.

Went down for the free breakie, feeling more human.

Heading out to see the Terry Fox Memorial before we leave Tunder Bay (practicing for Newfoundland).

J&G Across Canada 2009

Where are you? We are concerned..
Take care, but send messages..
Love, Mom n Dad

Minnedosa, MB -Happy Canada Day!

Yesterday's mileage 490k

First some belated thank you's...

Thank you Mel for the cord for to secure my sunglasses. The prairie winds have been relentless. and they want my glasses. Nothing like the Welcome To Alberta winds south of Calgary, but nice to know my glasses are secure. One less thing to worry about.

Thank you Elsie for the yummy home-made rhubarb/strawberry pie. I'm drooling on the keyboard at the memory. Thank you also for the girlie "first aid" kit. Travelling like this with my cropped hair, can't do mascara 'cause it'll end up all over my face, often grimey, it's been nice to have a little bottle of cologne, some perfumed soap & nail scissors etc. It was a touching and thoughtful gift.

I remember the young man we spoke to in the parking lot of the Nanaimo Ferry terminal at our departure. He'd ridden his bicycle across Canada. We asked him what struck him most about his trip and he said, "The prairies. They're beautiful!". I agree.

Have to confess to some snotty prejudice about living on the coast, surely the most beautiful part of Canada. I've lived in the prairies... Calgary, Edmonton and a year in Winnipeg. But seeing them like this on secondary highways has been a revalation. In late June, they have been green and lush and the views after descending into a river valley green with groves of elm trees and poplar growing along a meandering river are beautiful.

Saskachewan boasts some of the really old elm trees. I grew up in Southern Ontario and most of the elms are long dead, just bleached skeletons.

The Saskachewan highway is dotted with signs that say "STOP (gets your attention) the spread of Dutch Elm disease. Do not bring in firewood from other provinces".

An unexpected detour outside of Regina took us through some lush countryside with prosperous looking farms with large red brick farmhouses surrounded by a grove of old elms. The pastures are secured with all wood fences securing well bred horses. Also some lovely small towns. We stopped in one and it was eerily silent. No sign of people or cars and just the sound of the wind.

Ah, the wind. It's been our companion for several days now. I've fought it and I'm tired. It's a good tired. My arms, legs and core feel stronger.

Yesterday we did put on some decent mileage fighting the wind all the way. It was pretty countryside, green with groves of poplar and dotted with blue, blue ponds? coulees? slews/slus?. Note to self... Find out what they're called.

Almost all the ponds which average about the size of the fooprint of a small house, serve families of waterfown. Someone had gone to the trouble and expense of installing posts set in the water topped with a horizontal tube for nesting. Must learn about that program.

We arrived here in Minnedosa, MB last night and have decided to treat ourselves to an extra night here. It's Canada Day! A special kind of Canada day for Grant & I.

Messedosa is alot like being on the set of a Disney movie, but it's very real. Almost surreal. We're in the municipal campsite which invites a certain pride and care. Our hosts are a lovely late sixties smiley couple.

I kid you not, the women's bathroom has crocheted doilies under 2 choices of perfumed hand soap dispensers and each lavatory cubicle has a cross-stitched sampler that says things like.. "Remember, life is not a dress rehersal" or"Life isn't about about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain". Things to ponder whilst you're sitting there.

There's crocheted wreaths and butterflies on the walls. It's clean, spacious and bright. The showers cost a dollar, but the hot water goes on forever.

Come to think of it, the time will come when we might want to paraphrase "Life isn't about about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to RIDE in the rain.".

The campground is on the edge of a lake surrounded by low hills. At dusk, there will be fireworks set off from the shore at our end.

Riding here through the town itself was a delight. The main street is a row of old substantial brick buildings of several stories. The pioneers must have meant to stay.

The streets are all lined with very old elm trees and the houses are either small and quaint or large and impressive historical looking, built of brick. Everything is immaculately cared for. This has the feel of somewhere that could easily feel like home.

We walked abit around the lake last night and saw the beach freshly groomed in the twilight. The local teens were hanging out & generally flirting out in inner tubes while a crowd played beach volleyball. Almost too good to be true.

Gib:

A day of relaxation will feel good and this is a nice place to spend Canada Day. Really looking forward to the fireworks display off the dam tonight. There is going to be live music in the pavilion.

Truly the prairies are a lot flatter than BC but they are beautiful in their own right. Have seen a number of old 50/60's cars about in good shape. Also a lot of rusted old farm tractors sitting in fields along the highway as a form of decoration. One such field had at least a dozen. A gold mine for someone looking for a display piece outside a business.

The sun is warming up already this morning and it should be a great day to sit by the water and read. I'll see about getting the bugs and dust off the bikes today. Really the bugs haven't been bad at all but they mount up over the miles. At this point we have no idea of where to head tomorrow. The decision is to hit or miss Winnipeg.