PEI

Wednesday morning in Pictou was still showery. We took our time checking out of Lionstone Inn and by 10:30 the skies got a little lighter.

The drive to the ferry dock to PEI was short through a soft and misty air. Before long we were in line at the terminal and enjoying our books in the cafeteria building. There is no charge to take the ferry to the island but you pay to get off, by ferry or bridge. Dogs are welcome on the passenger deck and Grant's seatmate was an aging Spaniel who sat comfortably like a well seasoned traveller.

By the time we reached Prince Edward Island the sky was sunny and bright. First glimpses reveal the island to be low rolling, not flat. lush green landscape with sweeping expanses down to the shores. Not at all like the rocky shores of Nova Scotia and New Brusnwick.

The farmhouses on the southern shore east of the ferry terminal are old and stark. More of the three storey straight sided homes that are typical here in the Maritimes and unknown to us in the west. We have wondered why the houses are so big? Maybe the Catholic influence? Or multi-generational?

The farms we passed extended down to the shore, the cows grazing seaside in the sun. We passed some bright yellow fields of canola and of course, the dark green of potatoes. The famous red PEI soil stood out to mark any recently harvested rows.

We had a general route in mind that bordered the eastern shore up to St. Peters. Although the sun was shining the forecast mentioned showers by night and a wet Friday, Saturday. With some reluctance, as we enjoy our little home on the road, we decided that we would not be camping in the rain. We'd only just fully dried out from our to-the-bone soaking in Peggy's Cove and were anxious to avoid a repeat.

At the info centre at Woods Islands, near the PEI terminal, we inquired about camping and lodging in St. Peters. As I say we were reluctant to set up with the prospect of rain so we made a booking at Greenwich Gate Inn in St. Peters.

Travel around PEI does not involve long distances so we chose to take the most scenic route possible as we wound our way to our night's lodging. The road was an enjoyable ride with lots of twisty turns. In the beginning we drove by numerous farms that spread right down to the water's edge. Houses were set way back off the road with huge yards to mow. We have observed that Maritimers maintain beautifully manicured lawns the PEI in no exception.

The layout of the road grid system here is quite easy to follow. That didn't prevent the necessity of several U-turns, but our wrong turns have always led to a unique find. Today's was an abandoned light house and large adjacent home for sale. With unlimited funds and some fresh paint, it had outstanding B&B potential. As mum says, "If you can dream and not make dreams your master!"

One could venture off the main road and swoop down along the ocean then follow the loop back up to the main road again. The population here is sparse and scattered along the roadside. Many of the coves had lighthouses. It was very nice to take these side roads and enjoy the country and oceanside scenery along the way.

Arriving in Montague it felt like time for at least a coffee. Montague is a bright cheerful little harbour town with a marina filled with fishing boats. We parked on the main street and strolled down the the inlet where we found the Station Cafe. It is built in a historic red brick railway station and boasts a beautiful little courtyard over-looking over the marina. We decided to have a bit to eat and call it an early supper. Jill's fish cakes were superb and I really enjoyed a curried tuna and green apple baguette. The sun was shining and the temperature was warm.

The thought of camping still played heavy on us but we had made reservations so....

Passing through Cardigan we began to realize that the time was getting away on us. The charming detours to be near the water had burned up the afternoon. So reluctantly, we opted for more direct route to St. Peters. Direct, but through some back country long forgotten by the Department of Highways. We rode over some of the worst road we've seen and then saw a sign that read "Caution. broken pavement ahead." Time for second gear. Again, poor Grant pulling the trailer was at it's mercy. We passed impressive potato farms set in lovely rolling countryside. The air here is free of industry and constantly freshened by the warm breeze off the ocean.

In no time we arrived in St. Peters, a small picturesque village set at the very end of the longest bay on PEI. It is an old community originally a French trading centre and later settled by the Scotch. Our inn was a bright yellow set of buildings in a U shaped layout. The folks at the office were kind and welcoming. Our room, spacious and beautifully furnished. We settled in and enjoyed a quiet few moments in the gazebo enjoying a view of the bay then walked down to the harbour park.

The map designates that St. Peters has a resident population of under five hundred, but much work has been done to beautify the shoreline with a path system, benches and well kept gardens. The bay is home to a large cultured mussel industry and the orderly line of buoys supporting the columns of mussels criss-cross the bay. By late evening the clouds had rolled in but still no rain.

This morning a bit cloudy but lots of blue overhead and no rain. It was a pleasure to be on the bikes in the fresh morning air as we headed east to Cavendish. It is the site of a national park devoted to maintaining the beauty of PEI as depicted in Anne of Green Gables. As a young girl, I can remember my grandmother reading to me from the first "Anne" book and after learning to read went on to read all the books in the series. I was anxious to see the house which inspired the author, Lucy Maude Montgomery.

The park has done an excellent job of presenting the spirit of the book preserving the house where L.M. Montgomery spent a great deal of time. The house, countryside and sand dunes fall within the park boundaries and will be preserved.

Then for some culture... up the road to Ripley's Believe It or Not" Museum. I could hardly wait to see the two headed calf! Grant was a bit daunted by the $16 each entrance fee, but didn't want to disappoint so we spent a strange and exotic hour perusing the "oddities" and I was not disappointed. Also got to see the one eyed chick and the Lord's Prayer written on a grain of rice.

It felt strange, but somehow a relief to come out into the daylight and beauty of the day. The sky was darkening and we were anxious to avoid being caught in the 30 mm rain and gale force winds called for. We took the most direct route to Charlottetown and a recommended motel. So tonight we are cosy and dry in the Rodd Royalty Inn, it seems in the biker wing. Saying this because when we came in later in the evening there were a few other bikes parked in front of the rooms next to us. The motel is across the street from the Charlottetown Mall, a whole lotta retail and includes a multi-plex movie theatre. Our timing was such that after a quick bite of Korean food, we caught the new Harry Potter movie. (Jill-thumbs up, Grant-thumbs down)

The wind is howling outside as I write. Tomorrow we brave the rain and attempt to bus it down to the historic Charlottetown harbour.